The twenty thousand Servian and Bulgarian
warriors who fell, fighting heroically on the plain of Nissa, were worthy of a
better mausoleum. The Turks point to it proudly to this moment of their own
erecting as a memorial of their prowess.
The Servians, now independent, point to it
with equal pride as proof of the cost of liberty, and an eloquent incentive to
its preservation. Bulgaria will likewise one day be free, and her rude children
will chant the songs of liberty, around this monument of cruelty.”
Noyes not only condemned the Ottoman
system but he believed that the Bulgarian people would, one
day, be free and independent. He was aware of the existence of haiduks in the
Bulgarian lands and of the striving of the people to be free. Not all
Bulgarians had totally submitted to the conquerors. In the Balkan Mountains,
which “signify mountains of defense,” the Bulgarians retained “to a greater or
lesser extend their ancient privileges.”
American physician
The American physician was
very impressed with the natural beauty of the land and its rich resources. He
thought that there can be “no fairer” place than the Balkans: “It is endowed
with the eternal advantages of nature. Washed by the Euxine, the Aegean, and
the Adriatic, and boasting of the noblest rivers and richest plains, its
commercial and agricultural resources are not surpassed by any other part of the
globe. The northern slope of the Balkans is covered with rich forests.
A deep humus extends almost up to their
summits. And southward, ‘while the mountaineer kindles his fire on the
glaciers, the olive, the fig, and the pomegranate grow below in the valleys
that know no winter.’ There is a land of gentle breezes, of purple skies, of
all the soft delights of the great-eyed Orient.” However, under Turkish rule,
“which consuming forever, the monuments of ancient art and power have moldered
away.” The former hum of business and noise of commerce had been replaced by
“the silence of death” and the sites of populous cities were marked only by
“the silent cities of the dead.”
Noyes was not just a spectator of the
pastor of nature. He attempted to become acquainted with the life of the simple
Bulgarian peasant. At one time instead of staying in Turkish khans, he “sought
out the humble cottages of the Bulgarians, experiencing everywhere the
hospitality which is proverbial in the East.” He quoted with great approval
“the poetical description” of the Bulgarian way of life by a previous and
illustrious visitor of this land Cyprian Robert.
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